A D-I-Y project. That became a collection. That became a D-I-Y project. That’s the 5PREVIEW SS20 collection: "JUST DO-IT-YOURSELF". by Emeli Martensson
I missed working with my hands, creating something. There is a lot of drawing going on but I really missed cutting patterns, sewing, experimenting with shapes. I’m the creative director of 5PREVIEW so I usually don’t do clothes, but I gave it a try, I know how to do and it cannot be that difficult, or can it?
What I like with limited knowledge of something is that the result often is quite mini- malistic. And I like simple clothes because they don’t take too much attention away from the person wearing them. I worked with easy shapes, almost no patterns at all and after a couple of weeks we had a little capsule collection ready, made in white crisp cotton fab- ric. Think: rectangle, where you add a drawstring and toggles to shape it after your body. A squared top. A kaftan and a couple of kimono’s in different lengths. I even managed to make a jumpsuit!
We added a lot of colour, we feel like we need colour as much as we need different shades of white and beige to lighten it up. Some of the shapes I created are still in the collection but most of them are modified and developed.
As inspiration for the collection we had an image of a woman standing in a really hot place. You can see the red burned sand around her, cactuses and maybe a skeleton of an animal that died of thirst. She wears an airy kaftan, in a multicolour stripe and a small gust of wind goes right through her dress. She’s shading her eyes with her hand. As tem- peratures are rising we started right there, in that little piece of Arizona desert.
The clothes in the SS20 collection have volume, so the air can pass through them. We have sheer fabrics and natural fabric compositions. There is a lot of linen, viscose, tencel, raw silk and cotton/silk blends, that really breath when temperatures are rising.
The allover prints are intense, saturated in colour and figures. To be styled with plain light monochrome garments. We have not lost our playfulness and the uniqueness of the garments, because I think people want to feel unique, not like everybody else, because they ARE unique.
And what happened then with the DIY project? As we intensified our sustainability agen- da I became really curious, and I wanted to understand if there is really something to do about fashion/clothes business ruining the environment. I asked around, made inter- views with a lot of people that, according to me, are on the right path. I gathered all these discussions in a book, where you can also find D-I-Y tutorials on how to make some of the garments in our SS20 collection yourself. I want to offer a complement to consump- tion, as the consumption is ruining our environment, not the clothes themselves.